La Breña pine forest on the Barbate cliffs with the Strait behind

Andalusia

From the Cádiz coast to the Seville countryside there are trades that have been done the same way for centuries, because there is no other way to do them.

Manolo Ruiz and Lidia Galván on the quay at Barbate port
Chalk white vineyards and a whitewashed bodega near Sanlúcar de Barrameda

The almadraba waits for the tuna instead of chasing it. Sherry vinegar spends years in old casks. Olive oil tortas are stretched out one by one on the table.

Encarna Rivas and her daughter Inma at the work table of their Carmona bakery

Lidia wants the tin to go on saying Barbate. Macarena kept the casks nobody wanted. There are five of them in Encarna and Inma's workshop and they do not want to be more.

Curro Montero stacks boxes of picos while neighbours buy their bread

Who works here

  • Macarena Rendón, cellar master, aged 38, among old casks in a Sanlúcar bodega

    Macarena Rendón

    Bota Vieja de Barrameda · Sanlúcar de Barrameda

    She kept the vinegar casks nobody wanted and now they outsell the wine.

  • Manolo Ruiz and Lidia Galván on the quay at Barbate port

    Lidia Galván y Manolo Ruiz

    Conservera Galván · Barbate

    He sets the almadraba every May. She packs the tuna it brings in.

  • Encarna Rivas and her daughter Inma at the work table of their Carmona bakery

    Inma y Encarna Rivas

    Las Tortas de Encarna · Carmona

    Mother and daughter who stretch every torta by hand in a workshop of five.

  • Curro Montero, aged 31, behind the counter of the Utrera bakery

    Curro Montero

    Horno de la Trinidad · Utrera

    He thought about selling the bakery and now the picos pay for the neighbourhood's bread.

What comes from here

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