Bateas da Illa

Since 1974
From the sea
A Illa de Arousa, Pontevedra
Xiana Otero

Galician mussels in escabeche

Xiana Otero is thirty-six and has two mussel rafts in the Ría de Arousa. Her father set them up in 1974. She is the first woman in her family to work the rafts and one of the few on the island.

As a child she got seasick on the boat. She studied business in Santiago and worked at a bank in Vigo. When her father said he was selling the rafts, Xiana asked for them to be put in her name.

She says you do not feed the mussels: the estuary does. If the estuary is healthy, the mussels are healthy. Every tin sold abroad is a raft that does not get sold to a fund.

A day with Xiana Otero

The mussels grow on the raft, hanging from ropes, for a year and a half.

They are brought up onto the boat, cleaned and steamed the same day.

They are fried briefly and laid in the tin one by one.

They are covered with an escabeche of oil, vinegar, paprika and bay leaf.

How they make it